1.
Modern Tainjin textile industry
1.1 National
environment and historic conditins
Tianjin
lies to the east of north China plain, is in the lower
reaches and close to Bohai, having a very convenient
communication with a broad harbor hinterland and an
advantageous geographic position. In history, long
before, it used to be a pivot of water communications
and a production and marketing base of Changlu
saltworks. In the early seventeenth century, Tianjin
already became an economic centre of north China and a
strategic place in defense of Beijing. After the Opium
War in 1840, the western powers knocked down China
doors. And after the second opium War in 1860, ((
Beijing Treaty)) was signed, therefore Tianjin became a
commercial port and the Customs were provided the
following year. After 1860, England, USA, France,
Germany, Japan, Russia Belgium, Italia, Austria totaling
9 countries had set up their own concessions where many
foreign firms, banks and stores were built up, so export
and import increasingly became very thriving. From 1867,
Qing government established a series of military
industry and civil enterprises, such as Machinery
Bureau, Dagu Shipyards, steamer merchandizing
bureau…etc, being a beginning of modern industry.
After signature of Maguan Treaty in 1895, imperialism
obtained a right of setting up factories. Till 1913,
about 15 factories were established with foreign
capitals.
As the development of Tianjin communications,
particularly, Beining and later Jinpu railways were
constructed from 1907 to 1912, the economic position of
Tianjin increasingly became more important. Feudal
bureaucrat, capitalists and imperialists established
factories in succession and worked on import and export
trade. Based on this, modern textile industry in Tianjin
appeared and began to develop.
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1.2 Development of modern Tianjin textile industry
The
history of Tianjin textile industrial base could be
divided into three stages, described as below:
1.2.1Appearance
(From 1860 to Sep.1931)
In the early 19th century, Tianjin
became a biggest cotton collecting and distributing
center of north China area and a main harbor for our
country to export and to import cotton yarn and cloth.
In 1863, Tianjin imported over 200,000 Pi of various
colored cotton, being worthy of 1.01 million Liang
silver, accounting for 16.24% of the imported goods.
Till 1883 the imported cotton cloth came up to 2.96
million Pi, being equivalent to 6.32 million Liang of
silver in value and accounting for 61.44 % of the
imported goods. Cotton yarn also increased year by year.
It was only some 300 Dan, but in 1880 it came up to
61,000 Dan, equaling 1.14 million Liang of silver in
value and accounting for 8.36% of imported sum, taking
second place after cotton at the same year. In addition,
large quantity of China’s wool and cotton were also
exported through Tianjin harbor, so promoting Tianjin
textile industry to form and develop.
Qing Guang Xu’s 25 years
ago, Wu Mao Ding, a comprador of English-capital
Shanghai bank, founded Tianjin machinery bureau and
afterwards ruined in the incident of Yihetuan. During
the period of Qing Guang Xu’s 29 years(1903), Zhou Xue
Xi, a Tianjin local administrator at that time, had
established in Tianjin Hebei technology bureau, of which
he was a general manager, advocating “Going in for
technology” and encouraging to set up factories. He
was a founder of BeiYang industry. In 1904, he also
established a factory attached to a school with 12
subjects of looms, dyeing, jacquard…etc provided in.
From then a machine weaving industry came into being.
After that,
tens of machine weaving factories were built up
in Tianjin and its surrounding suburbs and counties, In
1915 a Hebei model cotton yarn factory
- Tianjin first machine spinning factory which
was an official-run enterprise by Beiyang government and
located in the west end of Zhou wei road was opened with
a capacity of 1536 spindles and a capital of 150,000
silver dollars. And next year the capacity was expanded
to 5000 spindles. In 1916 Zhang Rui Tin built up
Hengyuan canvas Co.,Ltd
which later was merged with Hebei model spinning
factory, named Hengyuan yarn spinning factory. It
started to be put into production in 1920 with a
capacity of 30,160 spindles and 299 looms. Zhou Xue Xi,
after he had left the post of the chief of the financial
ministry of Beiyang government, devoted himself to
industry and was elected as the general manager, the
chairman of the board of Xin Hua weaving and spinning
stock company., Ltd. Tianjin Hua Xin spinning mill was
built up in 1918(afterwards 3 spinning mills were
founded respectively in QingDao, Tangshan and Weihui).
Yuyuan,Yuda, Beiyang and Baocheng… spinning mills were
established in succession from 1918 to 1922. The above
six spinning mills had 236,072 spindles and 760 looms
altogether. There were 87 only weaving factories with
1,821 looms in all in Tianjin area. Up to then, Tianjin
really became a center of modern cotton spinning and
weaving industry of the north of China. But till 1930
there was no change of cotton spinning spindles, but
weaving industry still continued to develop.
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1.2.2 Modern weaving and dyeing industry in Tianjin
Those incorporating yarn-dyed weaving,
grey yarn weaving, cotton weaving, knitting, yarn
dyeing, cloth dyeing…etc were all called dyeing and
weaving industry. They developed at the initial stage as
imported yarn, cloth processing industry. In 1904,
government-assisted and businessman-run Tianjin
weaving/dyeing and sewing company was set up. In 1904
there was Yizhang weaving factory, weaving sofa cloth
and later changing to canvas making. And at the same
year Zhang Xiang Dong and Zhao Zeng Qing run Yuhua
weaving and dyeing company, producing plain and colored
cloth. At that time its cloth and those produced by Zhen
Xin weaving and dyeing factory, Tianjin industry factory
and Lixing cheng ji weaving/dyeing factory were called
“Patriotic Cloth”. The My 4th movement
sprang up in 1919, completely resisting Japanese goods.
Supply of “Patriotic Cloth” fell short of demand, so
promoting weaving industry to develop very fast. Till
1929, there were 328 weaving factories with a capacity
of 4805 looms, a total number of 7837 workers and staff
and a capital of 685,980 Yuan, those which produced
silk, silk/linen and artificial filament and
cotton-rayon fabrics accounted for 77.7% of the total
number of factories, In 1930 weaving industry was
stricken due to the invasion of foreign goods, over half
of them were bankrupt or shut down.
Modern
Tianjin dyeing and finishing industry began with Hualong
Yiyi dyeing factory constructed by Chao Dian Huan. After
that, 4 hand-operated dyeing workshops like Dong Jun He,
Rong Xing Rong Ji, Yi He Tai He Ji and Hua Guang strived
to be the first and feared to lag behind in copying
machines and transformed them into dyeing and finishing
factories. The out-of-date dyeing workshops were
gradually eliminated. Their products were sold to North
Chian, the northeast and the northwest.
Modern
Tianjin socks industry began in 1929 when the first
socks factory was constructed by Kuo You Heng, something
like a household workshop. At the initial stage, it had
only a hand reeling socks machine and then production
was expanded with 7 auto-socks machines and 5 non-power
hand-operated knitting machines built in. Products
varies as seasons changed. In 1926 stores were provided
to extend its scope of operation, being famous in North
China. Then, Yishen, Jui Hua Shun and Zhong hua socks
factories were built up one after another. Till 1929,
there were 154 knitting factories of the whole city, of
which were 150 socks knitting factories and 4 knitting
and sewing factories with a total capacity of 1,581
knitting machines and 1,610 workers and staff. Most of
them were featured with an handcraft industry. Their
annual production was 254,186 dozens of socks, 6,060
dozens of vests, 17,780 dozens of gloves, 4,885 dozens
of sweaters, 1,360 dozens of shirts, 4,137 dozens of
scarf, 5,040 dozens of hats and 2,330 dozens of wool
trousers. The raw material relied on imported cotton and
man-made filament. Factories with a capital of 1,000
Yuan or below accounted for 82%, whereas those with a
number of 20 workers or below for 87.7%. The first
machine knitting and sewing factory was constructed by
Gao Rui Wu in 1930, that is, Rong Chang knitting and
sewing workshop with only two flat-pan sewing machines
provided, bought knitting raw material for self-sewing
and self-sales. The first weft knitting factory – An
English owned Dao Cheng knitting factory – was built
up in 1931 with 5 single-sided interlock knitting
machines.
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1.2.3 Modern reproducing industry in Tianjin
Those include yarn ribbon, yarn blankets,
towels…etc were changed from a handcraft operation to
power-driven production. Ribbon weaving began in 1910.
There were civil belts produced by Man-power wood
machines. From 1927 there were power-driven bobbin yarn
and ball yarn factories. The earliest production of yarn
blankets in 1916 was in Sheng Sheng factory that was set
up by three people of Xing Yuan Ting…etc by way of
raising fund and equipped with non-power equipment. And
afterwards 21 power-driven weaving machines and 28 wide
jacquard machines appeared. Towels factories showed
themselves in 1919. The earliest production of towels by
using power-driven weaving machines was in Lu Li Fu. Li
He fabrics stock company., Ltd constructed by Shi He
Qing started production in 1921. Till 1931, there were
two yarn blanket factories, 19 towels makers and 157
ribbon weaving producers with 1,400 employees.
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1.2.4
Modern wool industry in Tianjin
In
1899 WuDing constyructed a wool weaving bureau with a
capital of 25,000 Liang of silver to produce worsted
fabric for military uniforms. In 1923 the English
merchants’ HaiJing foreign firm set up a woolen
worsted mill with two parts of spinning and dyeing. In
1935 the English merchants handed over spinning and
dyeing departments to Wu Zhong Jie and Cheng Shi Jin of
Tianjin(The dyeing mill was changed into Huo Chang
dyeing
factory later). After Wu Zhong Jie took over it,
the spinning mill was named Haitong wool spinning mill
equipped with 20 looms and 1 3-point suction comber. It
manufactured carpet yarn at the beginning and afterwards
also produced woolen zigzag twills. Renli woolen worsted
mill was established in 1931 and Dongya wool spinning
stock company., Ltd was put into production in 1923.
From then the modern wool spinning industry in Tianjin
began to be formed.
In
the early days silk weaving industry was connected
together with weaving and dyeing industry. In 1904 the
weaving section of Hebei factory attached to a school
used to be engaged in producing mulberry silk fabric,
like ”foreign crepe” and tested “You Chan Yan”(A
kind of satin dyed with flower/birds, grass/trees and
mountain/water). Its products were well sold. Only in
1912, the first silk weaving factory – Tianjin Rong
Sheng Gong Chen weaving and dyeing factory – appeared.
It was provided with 28 power-driven silk weaving
machines and over 40 workers. Its main product was silk
satin and less quantity of mulberry silk interwoven
satin. After that, set up were Yuhua, Daxin(Later turned
into a Chinese industry company) and Yizhang silk
weaving factories. They had an average capacity of about
30 silk weaving machines. From 1921 to 1830 appeared
more than ten silk weaving factories, such as “Liyuan
Heng”, “Rong Shen Giong Ji”, “Shen
Shen”,”LiLi”, “Da De Lun”, “Xing Ye He
Ji”, “Hua Xing”. “Guang Shen”…etc. The total
of looms reached up to 300 sets and 300 workers or more
worked in these factories. Therefore the modern silk
weaving industry was established.
To
sum up, on the basis of importing foreign equipment and
production technology, till the eve of Sep. 18th
Incident of 1931, Tianjjin already established a modern
textile industial base incorporating cotton, wool, silk,
printing and dyeing, knitting and reproduction
subsectors. Just owing to the development of cotton
spinning industry, imported cotton yarn was gradually
substituted. From 1918 when the first world war ended to
1931, the imported cotton yarn in Tianjin dropped down
from 315,000 Tan of an annual average to Zero.
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1.2.5 Change during the period of Japanese invasion
against China(From September 1931 to 1945)
After
“Sep.18th incident, three provinces of the
northeast were occupied. The sales of Tianjin textile
products abruptly fell in the northeast market. Cotton
yarn dropped down from 23 million Yuan in 1931 to 5
million Yuan in 1934. Cotton cloth fell from 12 millions
to 7 millions. After the puppet east Hebei government
was founded and with the connivance of the Guo Min Dang
government, Japanese smuggled goods in Tianjin market
were very rampant. To take man-made filament for
example, there were 89,724 boxes(about over 20,000 pcs)
only in 1936. At the same year, Tianjin had only 49,000
pcs of cotton yarn production. On Tianjin textiles
market Japanese goods took up 65 %, whereas Tianjin
local products only 17%.
There
were 6 cotton spinning mills and earning profit in years
at the initial stage of founding the factories, but few
of them used their profit to expand their production.
Most of the profit was shared in the name of an official
profit and a bonus. 6 mills were constructed with
capitals borrowed from Japan and America. Due to an
improper management, a desolate market, heavy taxes and
being heavily in debt, they were annexed by bureaucrat
and Japanese capitals successively. Both HengYuan and
Beiyang were taken over by Chen Fu trust company
featured by bureaucrat capital respectively in 1925 and
1936. Yu Da and Bao Cheng yarn mills were sold in 1933
and 1925 to Dafu company – a - combination of Nippon
company and ITOCHU corporation
(Also called Tianjin cotton yarn mill). Yuyuan
and Huo Xin yarn mills were also sold in 1936 to
Japanese capitala’s spinning company, respectively
named Gong Da No. 6 and No.7.
After
July 7th Incident in 1937,Tianjin was
occupied. Four cotton spinning mills – Yufun,
Shanghai, Shuangxi, Da Kan – were constructed with
Japanese capitals in Tianjin. Da kan spinning mill was
later changed to An He Tian factory Including Da Sheng
thread producing factory opening in 1932, there were
3400 spinning spindles. After Chu Mou Su was the
director of Beiyang spinning mill, the spindles were
increased up to12,544 pcs due to an improvement of
management. It used to be thriving during the period of
1936 to 1940. Till 1940 the spinning spindles reached
the top, that is, 556,000 pcs with 20,198 looms. Except
for several Chinese-run factories like Hengyuan,
Beiyang, Da shen…etc 86.33% of the spinning spindles
of the whole city were in the hand of Japanese
capitalists. At the end of anti-Japanese war, because of
the rare resources of Japanese army, cotton yarn and
cloth were controlled from 1940. In 1942, nearly one
third of cotton spinning spindles were pulled down for
“denoting Iron” for military use. Supply of raw
cotton in North China was also cut off. Some factories
turned to produce “ancient cotton yarn”(old cotton
fiber yarn) and reproduced cloth. Part of buildings of
Gong Da No.6 was for producing arms and ammunitions for
Japanese army. Tianjin cotton spinning mill planned to
produce spirit. On the eve of Japanese surrender, only
395,000 spinning spindles and 19,776 looms were left.
Japanese capital’s Shuangxi, Dakan and Gong Da No.7
all completely shut down. Yufang, Shanghai, Tianjin and
Gong Da No.6 also almost stopped running. Chinese-run
Hengyuan, Beiyang and Dashen spinning mills were also in
a stop or half –stop condition.
After “July 7th
Incident” in 1937, Capitals from the northeast invaded
into Tianjin. Therefore investment was contributed in
some small dyeing and finishing factories. 28 dyeing and
finishing factories were newly constructed at that time.
They were: Yida, Tianjing, Dahua Xingji, Nixing,
Taishuan, Tainzengyong, Dagong, Tian yixingji, Juxing,
Huiyuan, Xinfen, Changxingcheng, Xintai, Changshunhe,
Daxing, Yuchang, Taihe, Tiabncheng, Yongmao, Yihua,
Yichang, Yonglixiangfuji, Hujuhe, Tianhe, Tianshenghu,
Xinhua, Keun, Yongxingrongji, together with original
factories, totaling 41 factories. According to the
statistics from among 39 factories, Main equipment were:
300 pairs of dyeing troughs, 42 stenters, 63 drying
machines, 38 mercerizing machines, 1830 HP of motors and
45 boilers. 7 dyeing and finishing factories were
provided with bleaching production equipment. Tianjin
dyeing and weaving factory was
the biggest. Apart from best and latest dyeing
and finishing equipment, it was equipped with 54 looms,
being able to make self-weaving and self-dyeing
available. It used to have 2200 workers and staff. It
could produce 700 Pi of various colored cloth a day.
Besides, Japanese dyeing
company’s store set up a Tianjin workshop of the
dyeing company. All equipment and machinery were old
Japanese made ones, including 2 rotary printing machines
and bleaching, impregnating, raising and engraving
machines. There were 126 persons. This factory was the
beginning of modern printing equipment’s appearance in
Tianjin.
Relying on the advantage of
the advanced printing and dyeing equipment owned by
Tianjin workshop of the dyeing company, The colored and
printed cloth of Brand “3 horse heads” were well
sold in all parts of north China. Later production of
military cloth was added and buildings were constructed
in 1942, equipped additionally with 40 dyeing tanks and
4 raising machines. Production was extended. .Gong Da
No.7 had its additional dyeing house because of bringing
in old printing and dyeing equipment from Japan, but
the equipment were not completely installed, then
Japan surrendered.
During the periods of
Japanese domination and the puppet government, Tianjin
dyeing and finishing industry was seasonally produced.
In Summer it was in a stop and half-stop production and
its peak period was in Autumn and Winter. Main products
were indanthrene cloth, naphthol and sulfur dyed
fabrics. Most of them were inferior in quality. And at
the same time, due to the requirement of Japanese
aggressive war against China, a ration system towards
cotton cloth was practised from May,1940. Grey cloth all
mills needed was supplied by North China fiber
association, Tianjin branch, so production was not
sufficient plus a shortage of fund, causing production
to be maintained in a rather difficult way. Before
Japanese surrendered, four dyeing factories – Tianhe,
Changshehe, Yichan and Xingtai – were forced to make
others. Nine factories – Changxing, Fuming, Dahua and
Uyihua …etc were forced to be sold. 4 factories
dismantled their machines for paying their debt back.
And others were on their last legs.
Knitting industry continued
to develop from 1931 to 1937. Guangdao knitting factory
was handed over to a Chinese businessman Zhangdanzai for
operation. And the knitting machines increased to 61
sets in 1937, producing 39,000 pcs a year. During this
period Shenshen, Deji and Rongchang knitting factories
were put into production in succession. Knitting sewing
and socks industries also increased their production.
Before 1937, Rongchang knitting workshop was also
additionally equipped with one rib knitting machine and
2 interlock knitting machines for self-production of raw
material, and this factory bought one raising machine
for raising processing, used to be called “a king for
raising” Socks factories were rather more developed .
Most of their products were sold to all places of the
northwest, even to Xingjiang, taking up 60% of the total
production. And the other were sold to Hebei, Henan,
Shandong…etc. Lihe fabric stock company., Ltd of
weaving and dyeing industry increased its capital from
20,000 silver dollars in 1933 to 100,000 silver dollars
and by 1937 continued to further develop by importing 12
Japan Toyota looms, 8 jacquard and single towels
machines. Products of “Brand 4 golden thread”
towels, towels sheets, thread blankets and printed bed
sheets were sold to Hong Kong, Macao and the southeast
Asia. After “July 7th Incident in 1937,
even though yarn and cloth raw material were controlled,
knitting factories were forced to stop production and
shut down, but Japanese merchants established Wansun,
Moudaxiao, Sanhe, Zhaohe, Zhaokang, Hongyou …etc
knitting factories. Knitting sewing industry ran on its
operation and sold its products far away, or boarded raw
material for speculation. Socks factories, under the
control of raw material, landed in a predicament in
confronting the competition from Japanese merchant-run
Bantian, Hengsheng…etc. Many factories were annexed by
Japanese capitalists. Only Japanese capital’s
Hengsheng expanded into a big knitting factory having
500 socks knitting machines. At the later stage of
Japanese domination,
as man-made filament was less controlled by
Japanese (The percentage of man-made filament for
military use was only 26.7 %), there were still 4
knitting factories which used artificial filament as
their main material, but cotton spinning industry was in
depression and Lihe fabrics company was also forced to
close down in 1944.
Wool industry also
developed from 1931 to 1937. Renli woolen worsted mill
formally produced wool yarn in 19321 and woven wool
fabric. Dongya wool spinning factory had 900 spinning
spindles. It had only no more than 4000 to 5000 pounds
at the initial stage of putting into production, Later
this factory, by way of resisting foreign goods and
meeting the patriotic sentiment of the people, created
wool thread of Brand “Diyang”,
which was well sold in domestic market, becoming
a biggest wool thread factory run by a Chinese and its
capital increased from 230,000 Yuan in 1932 to 1 million
Yuan in 1936. After 1937, Japan controlled 60 % of wool
material at the beginning for military purpose and later
94.6 %. Simultaneously it forced to purchase wool
fabrics at a low price. Therefore wool textile industry
began to decline. Both Dongya and Renli relying on
processing military supplies for Japanese army could
keep their production. And at that time, Two wool
spinning mills were built up with Japanese capitals. One
was Tianjin No.1 workshop of Manmeng wool spinning and
weaving company, which had a test run in 1938 and its
operation was postponed due to flood to 1940 for a
normal production. Its products were military cotton and
wool blankets and soldiers’ fabrics composed of warp
with cotton and weft with wool. The another was Taixing
weaving factory, starting production in 1938 and using
waste for cotton blankets. Its business activity was not
prosperous. In 1941 Gongda No.7 was additionally
provided with wool weaving section. And the following
year dyeing /finishing machinery and hat-making machines
were brought in from Japan for test-fabrication of wool
threads, wool blankets, wool fabrics and hats that go
with formal dress. A big part of machines was destroyed
in a fire in July,1945.
In 1940 Dongya wool
spinning and weaving factory imported one set of linen
spinning and weaving equipment from Shanghai, thus
creating a beginning of modern linen industry in
Tianjin. In 1941 Japan constructed an additional linen
workshop in Shanghai yarn spinning mill. The production
capacity of both factories were 5-6 million pcs of linen
bags. According to Dongya’s data, 44% of the raw linen
was imported from India. Therefore the raw material was
not sufficient and at the later stage, the annual
production was only 6000pcs.
The development period of
ilk industry was from 1931 to 1940. Over 100 silk
factories were in operation, with a total capacity of
2,000 machines(Including 50 % them were made of wood)
and more than 2,000 workers and staff. Products reached
30 varieties, such famous products as Tianlian satin,
Yanlaikong, Satin back crepe, Yusha, Spring satin,
Georgette, Pattern soft satin…etc. And the quality
also reached a high level. In 1938 satins sold from
Tianjin to the outside were 568 Pi(40yards of rayon
satin per Pi and 30 yards a Pi for pure silk satin),
converting to 19 million meters. Except that 40 % should
be returned back, over 90 % of 10 million meters
produced in Tianjin were all made of rayon filament and
cotton yarn and very rare mulberry silk of which its
consumption was only 4 tons in 1936, accounting for
0.75%.Big amount of rayon was imported from Japan in
place of Italia and Germany. This was the important
reason why silk industry developed. As silk industry
developed, supporting jacquards, warpers, winding
machines, pirn winders…etc were also manufactured by
Maoye, Xingchang, Dazhongguang…etc factories.
Accompanying machine parts and fittings, repair firms
and factories were set up in succession. At that time,
silk industry in Tianjin was already formed on a certain
scale. But after 1940 and till 1945, under the
suppression of Japanese aggressive force, silk industry
was at standstill. And during this period fast developed
was Yitaisheng factory transformed from a Japanese
merchant Ojing’s foreign firm in 1937. It had
purchased 40 sets of old looms and pre-preparation
equipment from Japan to produce mainly rayon satins,
which was sold in 1939 to a Chinese Zhangyushen. In 1942
Zhang together with several Japanese merchants regrouped
this factory into Dongshen factory stock company., Ltd,
which was again equipped with 62 sets of silk weaving
machines, so becoming the biggest silk weaving factory
in Tianjin, which produced 2,400 yards of satin a day,
equaling to 2194 meters. Besides, Meiya silk weaving
factory moving from Shanghai had 40 weaving machines and
80 workers. Its main products were Yanlanhong and satin
back crepe.
During this period of
Japanese aggression against China from Sep.1931 to 1945,
Japan invaded our northeast and north China too. The
whole Tianjin city (including leased territory) fell on
Dec. 8, 1941. With the Japanese capital output
accompanied by Japanese military invasion, on the one
hand some original national textile industries were
gobbled up and on the other, the scope of textile
industry was extended to a certain degree and newly
–constructed textile factories came up. So, at the
beginning, textile industry developed and at the later
stage its production shrank because of a long period of
Japanese aggression against China and rare raw
resources.
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1.2.6 After the victory of anti-Japanese war (From
1945 to 1949)
Japan was
defeated and surrendered in 1945. The Guo Min Dang
government took over the Japanese textile enterprises in
Tianjin, grouping China textile construction
corporation, Tianjin branch, to which 7 textile
enterprises were subordinate, i.e. China textile mill
No.1(The former Yufeng cotton spinning mill), China
textile mill No.2(The former Gongda No.6), China textile
mill No3(The former Tianjin cotton spinning mill), China
textile mill No.4(The former Shanghai factory), China
textile mill No.5(The former Shuangxi factory) and China
textile mill No.6(The former Dakang factory), No.7 China
textile mill ( The former Gongda No.7).
Besides, the
Guo Min Dang government also took over 3 enterprises,
i.e. wool weaving factory(The former Manmeng wool
company’s Tianajin workshop No.1) the knitting
factory(The former Hengchang and Wansun knitting
factories) and dyeing/finishing factory(The former
dyeing company.’s Tianjin workshop).
The earliest
textile machinery and appliance industry in Tianjin
originated from the iron works run by Guo Tian Chen in
1907 and Chunfatai’s iron works was established in
1910. AT the beginning, loom parts were manufactured for
Japanese merchants and Japanese type looms were copied.
Later they developed and were equipped with 40 lathes
and over 200 workers, specially producing looms and
baling presses. In the thirties, a number of other iron
works such as Jioxing, Dehe, Dalai…etc were founded to
produce looms. Some also made equipment for dyeing
factories, but their production capacity was limited.
Textile appliance industry originated in the early
twenties, they were all handcraft workshops. Xuri,
Fuyuang, Dahe ironworks…etc were also set up with
Japanese capitals to produce textile machinery and
appliance. Their main products were wood –made
man-operated looms before the twenties, steel power
–driven looms were made until 1925. In the thirties,
well-conditioned Japanese capital’s factories produced
only some machine partrs or fittings. After japanese
surrender in 1945, in order to restore production and
repair machinery, China textile corporation Tiajin
branch established Tianjin No.1 machinery factory, which
was composed of and regrouped from 8 iron works of
Ahanagyan, Shaohe, Fuyuang, Dahe, Qianbao, Daxingxin,
Anyan and Shaltong in Beiping and Tianjin which were all
taken over by the corporation, and brought in wood
bobbin and shuttle producing machines,
so becoming the starting point of modern
machinery industry in Tianjin. Six months after Tianjin
No.1 machinery started its operation, all spinning
frames and looms of various CTC mills for repair were
completely repaired, thus all machinery gave full
production in time. Except for supplying spinning mills
with machinery parts and tubes/shuttles, 64 dyeing
troughs, 50 auto-reeling machines, 4 trial-fabricated
auto-looms were produced in this factory. After the
liberation of Tianjin in 1949, its name was changed to
be the machinery factory of China textile Construction
Corporation, called China textile machinery factory for
short. It took only one year to finish repairing all
machinery of the former No.7 China textile mill and a
concentrated effort was made to equip the third spinning
sub-mill of Tianjin No.2 cotton mill(the former No.2
China textile mill) with 10,000 spindles and at the same
time produced 370 auto-looms.
China textile
Construction Corporation Tianjin branch was of
bureaucrat capital under the jurisdiction of the
economic ministry of the Guo Min Dang government. It
monopolized the production and the sales of cotton
textiles. And simultaneously also monopolized purchasing
raw material and the import of foreign cloth. China
textile Tianjin branch had cotton collection organs
provided in Beiping, Tianjin, Shijiazhuang, Tanshan,
Baoding, Langfuang and Yangluqingzheng, to which the
cotton-collecting stations were subordinate. Each cotton
collecting station was in connection with 4 to 8 private
agents, so forming a cotton collection monopolizing net
within the raw cotton markets in North China. In the
field of product sales, it was to connect itself with
yarn/cotton shops via special operations sales organs
and hung out its shingle for selling products. At that
time, there were more than 300 yarn/cloth shops in
Tianjin(among them two third of them were “inside
shops” i.e. speculation organs). Over 1,000 shops were
direct linked with China textile Tianjin branch in 1946,
1470 shops in 1947 and more than 1500 shops in 1948,
1,809,067 Pi of cloth were sold to yarn/cloth shops in
1947, taking up more than 50 % the total production.
Though China textile branch
monopolized raw cotton collection in North China area,
mostly it still relied on importing American cotton. In
1946, large amount of American cotton was imported, so
various mills of China textile corporation restored
their production and gradually went on a normal
production way. There were a total number of 398,000
spindles with 9,100 looms for producing 124,000 pcs of
yarn and 4,849,000 Pi of cloth if spindles in Hengyuang,
Beiyang and Dashen were added in. Including those of
single-weaving factories, looms should come to 17,324
sets. But till 1940 the Guo Min Dang government
collapsed in military and political fields and its
economy was irremidiable, so import of American cotton
and state cotton collection were cut off. Production
could be maintained only for these days. On the eve of
liberation, the stock of raw cotton was only 44,000 Dan
left, maintaining production for 10 days. The situation
of private enterprises was even worse. In 1947 12% of
the total spindles was at stand still and production was
only two third of that in 1933. Only 60 % of
single-weaving factories were in operation.
After
the liberation of Tianjin in 1949, the original China
textile mills No.1 to No.6 were changed to Tianjin
cotton spinning mills No.1 to No.6. part of buildings
and equipment of China textile mill No.7 were destroyed
in the war. The fire-scorched machines, after being
repaired, were called in to Cotton Spinning Mill No.2
and No.4. And this factory was changed to Tianjin
printing and dyeing factory. At the end of 1949 6
state-owned factories and private ones in Tianjin had a
total number of 369,000 spindles, placing the fourth in
all provinces and cities of China. Printing and dyeing
industry used to be under development during this
period. 14 factories were newly constructed from 1946 ro
1949. They were Honda, Defeng, Bohai, Yuyuang, Hebei,
Ruikang, Dongda, Fungdaxingji, Jingxing, ruifeng,
tongqing, Donghe, Ruiyuang, Xinyuang, together with
original private factories, 48 factories in all,
equipped with 665 dyeing troughs, 80 drying machines, 39
stenters, 55 mercerizing machines and 27 calenders. The
dyeing workshop of China textile mill No.3 subordinate
to China textile corporation had 36 dyeing troughs, 5
drying machines, 2 tenters and 1 scouring kier. The
dyeing Workshop of China textile mill No.7 had 4
printing machines(1 for 8 colors, 2 for 4 colors and 1
for 1 color), 62 dyeing troughs, 6 drying machines, 6
stenters, 2 mercerizing machines and 7 scouring kiers.
The Tianjin workshop of Japanese capital’s dyeing
company was taken over by the Guo Min Dang government
and changed to be a workshop directly under Tianjin
dyeing and finishing factory of Tianjin
clothing factory to produce military cloth with a
daily production of 1,000 to 2,000 Pi of grass green
cloth , 134 bundles of grass green and grey military
threads, 300 Pi of printed cloth. China textile mill
No.3 and No.6 were provided with dyeing workshops and
produced all colored and bleached cloth. No.7 also
produced Annilinyuanqing cloth and printed cloth. In
1947 the average production of the two factories/month
was 15,241 Pi and 30,055 Pi
in 1948. As influenced by the war, private
factories had an extreme shortage of raw material. The
Guao Min Dang government took an attitude of limiting
their production and a policy of increasing their tax.
Grey cloth all factories needed were distributed
centrally by China textile corporation, only over ten
pcs a month for each factory, not enough for only one
day to consume. In the early 1948, not half of factories
could start production without difficulty. Till the eve
of the liberation of Tianjin, private factories were
only 46 left and most of them were at standstill. The
workshop directly under Tianjin dyeing and finishing
factory and China textile mill No.4 were destroyed in
gunfire in liberating Tianjin.
Though weaving and knotting industries
restored their production more or less after the victory
of anti-Japanese war, as a result of communication
cut-off between cites and rural area, American goods
impact on market, inflation and fast going-up prices,
many small factories were forced to shut down. According
to the investigation made by Communication Bank, Tianjin
branch after liberation, so far as cotton spinning,
printing and dyeing and knitting industries are
concerned, there were 1,293 private factories
and 1,387 people, i.e. 9 people for each factory.
Power-operated machines were used in 1,070 factories
with 9,117 people. It could be seen that most of them
belonged to a handcraft production.
Weaving
industry includes yarn-colored weaving and daily-use
cotton textile, man-operated machines were mostly used,
taking up two third of the total and there were still
many old wood machines. Sizing was made mostly by using
vat/trough and through hand squeezing, stick agitation
and drying in the sun. Work was stopped in rain season.
Although Lihe had constructed its factory with a history
of over 20 years, more than 40 % of products were still
produced by man-operated or power driven machines.
Till
the eve of the liberation in 1949, Knitting family had
178 factories with 1,377 people, 14 knitting with 252
people, 157 for socks making with 1,074 people and 7 for
sewing with 51 people. Most of factories were at
standstill or in a half- production or a stop condition
and more factories could produce knitted fabrics with
small cylinders and flat machines. Five sixth in socks
industry still used hand-operated machines.
Wool industry
was also in a difficult condition. Only three factories
- Renli, Dongya and Tianjin wool weaving factory
– had 1,600 workers and 11,844 wool spinning spindles.
Production value was 11.166 million yuan. The main
products were 4 varieties – wool fabrics, wool thread,
wool blankets and industrial-use wool fabric.
Linen spinning
industry had Dongya and China textile mill No.4 . They
were all provided with 1,830 spindles and 129 sets of
weaving machines. An annual production was 1,646,657 pcs
of linen bags.
Dongshen
factory of silk industry was also taken over by China
textile Tainjin branch and changed to be China textile
Tianjin silk weaving factory to produce man-made
filament satin back crepe. In March, 1948 “Tianjin
Silk Industrial Subsector’s Association” was
organized by 41 private silk weaving factories in
Tianajin. Member factories had over 1,310 silk weaving
machines. In additin, more than 10 factories not joining
the association had over ten silk weaving machines and
more than 30 factories less than 10 machines. At that
time Dongshen factory had 70 machines with 120 people.
There were nearly 100 silk weaving factories of the
whole city, 2,200 silk weaving machines and 3,000
people. Among them over 50 factories were a bit larger
with more than1,500 silk weaving machines(Including
power-driven jacquard machines) and 2,200 workers. The
production was1.20 million meters a month.
From 1945 to
1949, the Guo Min Dang government took over Japanese
textile enterprises in Tianjin. To restore yarn and
cloth production, textile machinery manufacturing
industry was constructed. And later it was busy with the
civil war, not only Tianjin textile industry didn’t
develop, but deteriorated furthermore. As it had a
better foundation from its origin, it still was an
important textile industrial base in coastal area of
north China.
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1.3. Features of modern Tianjin textile industrial
development
The
establishment and development of modern Tianjin textile
industrial base lie in:
1.3.1. Tianjin has an excellent natural
environment. It is an economic center of the north
China, the northeast and the northwest areas of our
country and an international commercial harbor. In
history it was a door of the capital of Qing dynasty. It
is located at the communication pivot of the north and
south and close to the vast hinterland of north China.
After the door is open to the outside, it has received
the influence from outside very fast. It is also an
important market for textile raw material and for
foreign and domestic trade of textile products.
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1.3.2. Due to its important geological situation,
it attracted imperialism to gaze at it. Particularly
during the period when Tianjin was occupied, Tianjin
textile industry had to obey the purpose of Japanese
military aggression, it was forced to conduct processing
of military supplies. Therefore, during the early period
of the occupation, Japanese power was still strong, so
textile industry developed. But at the later stage of
anti-Japanese war, owing to rare Japanese resources and
its surrender after being defeated, there was a direct
effect on the production of textile industry to be at
standstill and to shrink.
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1.3.3. Tianjin textile industry has a long
history, so it laid a certain physical foundation in
breeding a number of technical force and accumulating
richer production experience. In order to repair
equipment, China textile corporation founded textile
machinery industry and opened technical training courses
to foster technical personnel. Under numerous
suppressions by imperialism and feudal bureaucrat,
private textile enterprises studied technique
intensively to develop production. In particular,
weaving and dyeing, reproduction and wool enterprises
made a certain achievement in history. Towels, towel
sheets, thread blankets and printed bed sheet of Brand
“4-Golden Coin” produced by Lihe Fabric stock Co.,
Ltd, were exported to Hong Kong, Macao and countries in
Southeast Asia. Thread blankets of Brand ’Twins’
produced by Shenshen factory were welcome by people in
urban and rural areas. “Patriotic Cloth” of yuhua
weaving and dyeing company and wool thread of Brand
“Diyan” produced by Dongya wool spinning factory
used to be fashionable for a time in north China and
many places of our country.
After the
founding of the People’s Republic of China, by summing
up the operation experience of textile workers,
“Mayday Weaving Method” embodied the operation
experience of Tianjin textile workers.
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1.3.4. Facing the severe competition from foreign
capitals, Tianjin national capitalists tried hard to
improve operation management, so creating a certain
sales management characteristic. In 1936 after Chenfu
Trust Company., Ltd took over Beiyang and Henguyuan
spinning factories, Chumongsu was elected as the
director of Beiyang spinning factory. After his
appointment, he reformed the original management organ,
changed the main labor force from male to female and
conducted basic operation training. And at the same time
all machines were repaired or maintained to increase
yarn/cloth production and quality. Brand ‘Golden 3
Vessels’ was used, turning loss into gain in less than
one year. In 1937 this factory bought equipment with a
capacity of 12,544 spindles from Japan, provided
self-generators, re-equipped large draft systems for
spinning frames, simplified process flow and reduced
production cost, thus causing Beiyang yarn spinning
factory to have a period of great prosperity. Manager
Chujuisheng of Renli company built up the wool spinning
factory in 1932 and at the same year, he undertook the
agent of American merchant’s Ruihai firm in Tianjin,
breaking the outside sales way monopolized over years by
foreign businessmen, and tried every possible means to
collect raw material. During the period of Japanese
domination, he was good at dealing with Japanese for the
purpose of keeping its actual strength. Chairman of the
board and manager Songbeiqing, to make Brand
‘Diyang’ wool thread to become a competitive
product, organized technical personnel to conduct
technical study, adopted new machinery, selected good
raw material, improved operation method and carried out
scientific experiment, so product quality was enhanced
in the end.
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2.Present
Tianjin textile industry
2.1.
Fully develop the function of the old Tianjin textile
base, speed up renewal transformation, increase
equipment level and extend production scale.
After
the founding of the people’s republic of China,
Tianjin textile industry has gone through three
development periods: Rehabilitation period(From 1949 to
1952), development production period(From 1952 to 1978)
and adjustment/reform period(From 19798 till now).
During
the rehabilitation period, Tianjin Municipal Government
transformed bureaucrat capitals’ cotton spinning
mills, textile machinery factories, knitting factories,
wool weaving factories…etc , totaling 14 enterprises
into state-owned enterprises, becoming the key
enterprises of Tianjin textile industry. At the time of
fast rehabilitating production, a transformation of old
left equipment was made, so improving production and
working condition. At the end of 1952, there was a total
number of 84,539 people and industrial production value
reached up to 735.86 million Yuan, realizing a profit of
92.10 million Yuan, 8.6 times of that in 1949.
During
the period of production development, in 1956 Tianjin
textile industry successfully finished its socialist
reform, over 2000 private factories and handcraft
workshops were merged and reorganized into 140
factories, enabling production capacity to be further
liberated. At the end of 1956 industrial production
value was 1,191,000,000 Yuan, increasing by three times.
In the fifties, based on production value and economic
result, Tianjin textile industry was placed the third
among textile industries. At that time it was called
’Shang(Shanghai), Qing(Qingdao),
Tian(Tianjin)’.During the period of the following
4 “Five-Year Plans”, considering that cloth
weaving of cotton spinning subsector was larger than
yarn spinning in respect of the capacity, in adding more
spinning spindles, new equipment and technique were
utilized and flat spindles transformed into high-speed
rolling bearing spindles, allowing the level of unit
production to increase swiftly. 5 factories of printing
and dyeing subsector were reformed, so extending the
ability to print/dye and after-finish cotton/polyester
fabrics. Nearly 300,000 square meters of production
buildings were rebuilt for cotton spinning, wool
spinning, knitting, printing and dyeing subsector and
3000 or more sets of equipment renewed. At the end of
1978, there were 526,000 cotton spinning spindles and
12,400 cotton looms, enabling production capacity and
level to increase greatly.
During
the period of reform and adjustment, particularly after
the Third Plenary Meeting of the 11th
Party’s Conference and as the focal point of the work
of the whole party was transferred, the proportion of
agriculture, light and heavy industries was adjusted and
a principle of “Six Preferences’ towards light and
textile industries was executed. During ‘the Sixth
Five-Year Plan’ period, the government made an
investment of 1,117,900,000 yuan, of which 158,000,000
yuan for basic constrruction and 1,021,000,000 yuan for
importing equipment and technical reform. At the same
time, 52 enterprises were called in from outside
systems, altogether over 17,000 people. 7 new cotton
spinning and weaving mills and huaxin, Ahenghua, liulin
and Xingan, …etc totaling 14 wool factories were
constructed in the suburbs and the five counties, During
the period of 7th Five-Year Plan, in the
spirit of ‘Consolidation and Increase’, stress was
placed on digesting of imported projects and making the
production available by technical reform project.
Investment result was continuously achieved due to 89
technical import and reform projects. After they are put
into production, the industrial value increased by
600,000,000 Yuan, tax by 90,000,000 Yuan, foreign
exchange for export by 17,000,000 Yuan. At the end of
the Seventh Five-Year Plan, Tianjin textile had 0.91
cotton spinning million spindles and wool spinning
spindles. In the nineties, According to the requirement
of market economy, an organization of a group was put
into consideration and a strategy of famous brands
executed, so strengthening the dynamics of technical
reform. An investment of 1,030,000,000 Yuan (including
75 million USD) for technical reform was made from 1992
to 1996. 568 shuttle looms were imported for cotton
spinning and weaving subsector. By doing so, the
proportion of shuttleless looms reached 7% and that of
non-knot yarn increased up to 6.5 % compared with 1.5 %
before technical reform, thus increasing the entire
processing level of Tianjin textile industry to a
certain extent. During the period of the 9th
Five-Year plan, the textiles of the whole country were
“supply is bigger than need”. Tianjin textile
industry entered a difficult period and loss incurred n
all subsectors. In response to the appeal of the State
council, 236,000 backward cotton spinning spindles and
4,304 wool spinning spindles were cut of Tianjin textile
industry were cut off from 1998 to 2000. 70,000 people
were brought out of Tianjin textile industry in five
years(from 1997 to 2001). In 2000 Tianjin textile
industry developed a spirit of “4-integity”, turning
loss into gain.
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2.2 By adjusting products structure, develop and
foster a number of notable products characteristic of
Tianjin textiles.
Tianjin textile industry could only produce 128
catalogues of middle and low-grade products, being
inferior in quality and less in varieties. Even well
conditioned cotton spinning and weaving mills could only
produce “Dawufu” plain cloth – popular gods of
dependable quality. Facing this situation, the State
gradually increased its investment for textile industry
from the socialist reform period to “the sixth
Five-Year Plan” and “the Seventh Five-Year Plan”,
making new technology, new process and new equipment
find their wide application. By way of developing wide
fabric, chemical fiber and blended fabric and knitted
outwears and using rotary screen printing, resin
finishing and heat-settting, the proportion of
middle-grade products increased continuously. At the end
of 1978, middle- and high-grade products reached 49 % ,
super fine corduroy, colored yarn woven voile, weft
filament cutting motif fabric, rayon bed covers,
cashmire overcoat fabric,
pure wool loop thread, and pure wool cutting
blankets were welcome by clients both broad and at home.
From the days when the evaluation of textiles was
carried out in 1979, there were 218 products of Tianjin
textile industry which won tittles of excellent-quality
products granted by the State, the Textile Ministry and
Tianjin. Brand Meihua 38s combed cotton/wool sports wear
won the first golden medal among the same subsectors.
And meanwhile, knitted under wears of Brand White rose,
socks of Brand Red-Crown Crane. All wool worsted flannel
, blended flannel of Brand Tulip and blended fine wool
thread of Brand Chinese Rose won golden and silver
medals honored by the State. In the nineties, Tianjin
textile’s strategy of famous brands was carried
throughout and the directional location orientation of
Tianjin textile products were further determined,
matching with the position of Tianjin international
city. Developed were products featured by high-grade,
high-tech. Content, high-added value, multi-function and
series, and 18 products of famous brands were fostered,
such as Diyang, Tianma, Baxieren, jianglong, red-crowned
crane…etc. Renli wool spinning factory has developed
in succession double-warp/single weft super thin fabric,
characteristic of water proof, anti oil, anti-static,
flame-resistant…multi-function fabrics and wool
modified fabric…etc. Wool fabric of Brand Tianma was
designated by the National Sports Committee to be a
solely assigned material for the sports wears of the
Chinese athletes attending 26th Atlant
Olympic Games. In recent years, the proportion of famous
brand products is increasing continuously. Till the end
of 2000, the production value of proportion of
“Five-High” products reached 24 % and the sales
profit 20,388 million Yuan. The holding company is still
approaching to Tianjin key industries to develop
supporting products. Industrial textiles range from
motor car industry to seamless steel pipes, construction
material, machinery, cement, aviation, housing…etc
industries.
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2.3
Actively open up international market and extend
self-operated export.
At
the time when the People’s Republic of China was
founded in 1949, not only Tianjin textiles could not be
exported, but some textiles needed to be imported.
Though 3-year rehabilitation period, export was extended
continuously. 30 catalogues and 60 varieties of textiles
are exported to 108 countries and regions. Export
purchasing value reached up to 31.70 million Yuan.,
increasing by 16 times than that in 1953. As the
deepening foreign trade system reform, Tianjin Textile
Import and Export Union – the first company of Tianjin
textile system having right to export – was founded in
1985. In 1992 another 9 and 38 factories in 2000 had
self-operated export right involving nearly 100
factories. The foreign exchange earned from
self-operated export reached up to 280 million USD in
2000 from 20million USDF in 1985, increasing by 14
times. At present, there are 800 fixed customers. Since
1986, self-operated export enterprises set up their
points respectively in Romania, Hong Kong, Australia,
USA…etc. The variety of products related to
self-operated export was continuously increased from
initially-processing cotton yarn
to deeply-processing garment and a great number
of high-new technology products have entered the
international market.
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2.4 Actively bring the reform adjustment into effect
and try hard to create the new pattern of Tianjin
textile industry.
Since the Third Plenary Meeting of the Party’s
Eleventh Conference, Tianjin textile industry has
persisted in reform and being open to the outside,
further liberated thinking, opened up to make
progress and positively promoted the reform and
adjustment of tianjin textile industry. In particular,
since the Party’s fourteenth conference, due to the
requirement for socialist market economy and
“3-Favourable” standard, it seized big one and let
small one free in the form of unity, annexation,
bankrupcy and stock cooperative system and broken the
boundary line between subsectors and enterprises, so
speeding up regrouping the enterprises and configurating
assets in a optimized form. A number of enterprise
groups and 80 multi-channel investment liability
companies., Ltd were built up and the import and exprt
industrial company., Ltd of Tianjin textile group
founded, trying to make them become companies on market.
And at the same time, in conbination of reform,
transformation and regrouping, it has taken an active
attitude to transform old enterprises. Jinying spinning
company – a joint venture built up with English Total
Group, Samsung wool spinning and weaving company., Ltd
– another joint venture constructed with Korean
Samsung Group have become very strong joint venture
enterprises. Through a regrouping by cutting off
spindles, the Holding Company tries to speed up the
construction of 10 small zones for cotton spinning, wool
spinning, silk, knitting, printing and dyeing
subsectors, forming anew structure of Tianjin textile
industry and entering the 21st century with a
new face.
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